Hidden beneath the sun-drenched plains of North India are cool, below ground shelters called stepwells. These architectural marvels, known by various names, are testaments to the ingenuity and artistry of bygone eras. In Hindi-speaking regions, they are called baudi or bawdi, while in Gujarati and Marwari languages, they are known as vav, vavri or vaav.
Picture yourself slowly descending into the loving embrace of the earth, guided by steps worn by the passage of time. Each step, intricately carved, beckons you further into the ancient womb of history. As you go deeper, the air undergoes a remarkable transformation. It becomes cooler, saturated with the earth’s musky essence, gently brushing against your skin, leaving a damp sensation that lingers. Within this embrace, the secrets of countless centuries are whispered, carried by the very air you breathe.
Stepwells were not just functional structures; they were also beautiful works of art. They boasted breathtaking embellishments that depicted scenes from mythology, nature, and everyday life. The ceilings were graced with celestial dancers, and the musicians were depicted with exquisite detail. Elephants with tusks curling like ancient scrolls stood as silent guardians against the passage of time.
Stepwells were essential for arid regions, providing water for sustenance and rituals. Besides, they were vibrant community centers. Women in colorful dresses would descend to fill their vessels, their laughter filling the air. Holy men and royalty sought solace in the cool depths, escaping the scorching sun. Lovers would steal glances amidst the carved pillars and hidden chambers. It was an oasis amid aridness.
Stepwells displayed a range of architectural designs that were influenced by both the region and the era they were built in. Stepwells in Gujarat featured ornately carved pillars and cusped arches, showcasing the Indo-Islamic architecture. Rajasthan’s stepwells resembled inverted pyramids with minimal ornamentation on side walls. In Uttar Pradesh, stepwells showcased the influence of Mughal artistry with geometric patterns and floral motifs on their walls.
Historically, kings or wealthy merchants commissioned stepwells. The act of providing clean drinking water to everyone was regarded as a charitable deed, a tradition that continues to be held in high regard. These ventures were frequently initiated during times of famine to generate public employment, functioning as a sort of 17th-18th century MGNREGA.
However, the political and economic landscape underwent significant transformation by the early 19th century. The East India Company (EIC) had established its authority, which now required approval for major expenses. As the century progressed, the British introduced piped water, rendering stepwells obsolete. They gradually fell into neglect, disuse, and disrepair.
After gaining independence, the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) and a renewed focus on heritage in recent years have brought back to life some of these architectural treasures. However, many others remain neglected and forgotten.
Next time you’re in North India, take a moment to escape the chaos and explore a stepwell. These underground wonders hold stories told through water, stone, and time. Forgotten tales linger in the air, inviting you to uncover the mysteries within the ancient walls.
Here are a few, from the travels in this area…
A Stepwell Steeped in Mystery: Panna Meena ka Kund
While the majestic Amer Fort attracts most visitors to Jaipur, this hidden gem lies literally next door–the 16th-century Panna Meena ka Kund stepwell in Amer village. This picture-perfect water structure blends seamlessly into the ancient, temple-filled surroundings.
The lack of historical records has given rise to a multitude of captivating stories. Some local legends attribute the stepwell’s construction to Panna Miah, a eunuch courtier of Maharaja Jai Singh. Others suggest a darker tale, stating that the Meenas, the indigenous people who inhabited Amer before the Rajput arrival in the 10th-11th centuries, built it. This story whispers of Panna Meena, a Meena king, who supposedly lent his name to the stepwell. It further suggests that the Rajputs gained control of Amer by massacring unarmed Meena chiefs who had descended into this very stepwell for a ceremonial bath.
While there’s no evidence to support this last narrative in mainstream historical texts, it’s true that the Meenas held sway over Amer before the 11th century, and the stepwell itself is unlikely to predate that period. In the absence of concrete records, local folklore fills the gaps, weaving stories that enrich the site’s legacy.
Despite its relatively modest size compared to other Rajasthani stepwells, Panna Meena ka Kund, and surrounding temples, remain a worthwhile visit. The local municipal authority has maintained it for the past two decades, and it now finds new life as a popular spot for selfie and pre-wedding shoots.
Jodhpur’s Architectural Gem: Toorji Ka Jhalra
Nestled amidst the vibrant blue houses of Jodhpur, and cradled at the foot of its majestic Mehrangarh Fort, lies Toorji Ka Jhalra. Commissioned in 1740 by Maharani Jaikanwar Toowarji, consort of Maharaja Abhay Singh, this stepwell embodies the grandeur of Rajput architecture.
Unlike the numerous baoris (stepwells) of Jodhpur that have succumbed to neglect, Toorji Ka Jhalra remains remarkably well-preserved. Its tiered structure, adorned with intricately carved pyramidal steps and elegant ornamentation, is a testament to the era’s craftsmanship. This restoration is likely due in part to the area’s gentrification, with the presence of private hotels, restaurants and shops fostering its upkeep.
Interestingly, it still serves as a vital source of cool water for local residents and even gained international recognition by hosting a Red Bull Cliff Diving competition in 2019.
Bundi’s Enduring Gems: The Enchanting Baoris
Close to Kota in Rajasthan, the picturesque town of Bundi boasts a unique collection of baoris (stepwells). Over the past five centuries, skilled rulers, and artisans have crafted these stepwells, showcasing their intricate craftsmanship and engineering prowess. The smooth, weathered stone of the stepwell’s walls bears the marks of time, each groove, and crevice a testament to the passage of centuries.
Originally designed to provide access to precious groundwater–a necessity for drinking, bathing and religious rituals–Bundi once thrived with over 100 stepwells within its city walls. Today, approximately 50 remain, and only a select few have been restored.
Each stepwell whispers a unique tale. Among them, the 17th-century Raniji ki Baori reigns supreme. Commissioned by Queen Nathavati to honor her late husband, King Anirudh Singh, it stands as a breathtaking masterpiece. The project was conceived as part of public welfare, during a draught.
Adalaj ni Vav: A Stepwell Steeped in Legend
While dwarfed by the grandeur of Rani-ki-Vav, the 15th-century Adalaj stepwell near Ahmadabad remains a stonemason’s masterpiece. Envision a jewel box–intricately carved flowers, elephants, deities and ornamental motifs adorn column-supported arcades that encircle a central, octagonal well shaft. The shifting patterns of sunlight create an ever-changing tableau, illuminating different details of the stepwell’s intricate carvings as the day progresses.
The Vav’s history is a captivating blend of love, war and resilience. Despite the profusion of Hindu symbols, the well was commissioned by Mahmud Begada, a Gujarati sultan. Legend has it that Begada sought to woo Rani Rudabai, the widow of his vanquished Hindu rival, Rana Veer Singh. The foundations for the Vav were laid by Rana Veer Singh, and upon his defeat, Begada proposed a deal: Rani Rudabai’s hand in marriage in exchange for completing the stepwell in her husband’s memory.
The queen agreed to the Sultan’s condition. The Vav was finished in 1499, but before the marriage could take place, Rani Rudabai is rumored to have committed suicide by leaping into the well, a final act that ensured her husband’s dream was realized. That unconsummated story left behind a magnificent five-story stepwell that seamlessly blends Hindu, Jain and Islamic architectural styles.
The mystique deepens as you descend. Rumors whisper of the queen bathing in the cool waters on full moon nights while, for the average daytime visitor, sunlight filters through the intricate latticework, casting mesmerizing patterns on the steps, creating a dance of light and shadows.
A Forgotten Jewel Reborn: Agrasen ki Baoli
This hidden gem unveils itself unexpectedly amidst the bustle of a New Delhi street, just a stone’s throw from Connaught Place. The stepwell slices a dramatic 60 meters through the earth, its walls adorned with niches nestled under elegant Islamic arches. A single, sweeping stairway, 108 steps wide, descends into the cool darkness, leading towards the now-empty water reservoir below. The sound of footsteps reverberates through the cavernous space, a reminder of the countless souls who have treaded these same steps before.
The structure we see today most likely dates back to the 14th century Tughlaq period, when Delhi was ruled by Turkic sultans. Local lore paints a spooky picture, whispering tales of djinns who prey on mischievous children. Bats flit through the shadows of the inner chambers, adding to the eerie atmosphere, while pigeons flutter freely in the sunlit courtyard above.
The baoli’s history remains shrouded in some mystery. While there’s no definitive record of its commissioning, many believe the Tughlaq dynasty constructed the present structure around the 14th century. Some guides might spin tales of a much older origin, dating back to the Mahabharata era. Others claim the Agarwal community rebuilt it during the Tughlaq period, explaining the name. Delhi’s rich oral history offers a variety of narratives–choose what you like!
A more concrete historical fact lies in that by the 20th century, it had sadly become a dumping ground and a haven for squatters. Post-independence, ASI undertook a meticulous restoration, returning the baoli to its former glory. Today, thanks to a starring role in Aamir Khan’s 2015 blockbuster PK, the baoli has become a popular spot for selfies and exploration.
Abhaneri — The Best
Chand Baori, perhaps India’s most striking stepwell. Its 3,500 steps cascade down the sides of a massive central tank, resembling a cut diamond’s intricate facets–a dazzling sight that plunges 13 stories deep and stretches 35 meters across.
The origins of this marvel remain shrouded in some mystery. Was it the work of an engineer, an architect, a mathematician or a devoted soul? The latticework of interlinked stairways evokes the impossible geometry of M.C. Escher. Local tales, where folklore and history intertwine, suggest that the lower tiers were built by the Hindu king Raja Chanda in the 9th century (hence the name Chand Baori). The upper levels received embellishments in the 18th century, with pavilions and arcades likely added by the Rajputs or Mughals.
Adjacent to the stepwell lay the ruins of the Harshat Mata temple, dating back to the 9th century. Sadly, the temple was destroyed during raids by the Delhi Sultanate in the 11th or 12th century. Its remnants — pillars, columns and statues — now lie scattered within the stepwell courtyard, a silent testament to its tumultuous past.
DC Comics fans might recognize Chand Baori from Christopher Nolan’s “The Dark Knight Rises,” where it served as Bruce Wayne’s escape route from a subterranean prison.
The splendor of the kingdom that gave birth to this stunning landmark is long lost in pages of history. Visitors enter through an unassuming doorway, where a menagerie of goats and dogs mingle, a stark contrast to the awe-inspiring scene that awaits them within.
The village itself was once known as Abha Nagri, meaning “City of Brightness,” but time has softened the name to Abhaneri. This village is about 80 kilometers from Jaipur, slightly off the beaten tourist path.
Afterword
Stepwells, no longer in use, are now considered legacies of a bygone era. Their remarkable blend of art and architecture continues to inspire, even though their practicality became obsolete long ago with piped water reaching our doorsteps.
Imagine my surprise, then, to encounter an echo of the stepwell tradition in the artwork of Thomas Heatherwick at Hudson Yards, New York City. Titled “Vessel,” this 46-meter-tall steel sculpture reimagines the essence of the Indian stepwell. Its 154 open-air stairways and landings spiral upwards for 150 feet, mimicking the stepwells’ ascent from the bottom. The experience culminates in panoramic views of the surrounding 28-acre development and the Hudson River, echoing the stepwells’ function as social spaces.
Heatherwick’s creative twist lies in presenting this structure entirely above ground, a bold contrast to the subterranean stepwells of India. Yet, in its essence, “Vessel” bridges the past and present, a happy fusion of imagination and tradition.
