When Vasant ritu comes to Malwa, they say the river brings new life to her valley… But wait… hark! Is that a snatch of a distant song on the air? Or is it only the moaning of winds in the ravines of Mandu? Who knows …
Mandu, also known as Mandavgad, two hours south of Indore, is a sliver of history that has magically survived till date. Perched 2000 feet above the plateau of Niwar & Malwa, it boasts cooler climate, besides natural fortification. Monsoons paint this part of hilly region with bright emerald greens that is dotted with a dozen small lakes, ponds and little brooks gushing down the ravine. Add the rolling fog that blankets it in the evenings and Mandu becomes ethereal. This is probably the reason why the city, enclosed within its fort-walls, was in its prime called by the Muslim rulers Shadibad, ‘The City of Joy’.
History 101
Just as history often unfolds, centuries pass by in a quiet lull, until a burst of brilliance flashes for a fleeting moment, before monotony descends once more. Similar is Mandu’s tale…
Malwa region had become an important political centre in medieval India. The first noteworthy dynasty to rule this region was the Paramara Rajputs from 9th to 14th century AD. Even though Dhar (35 kms away) was their capital, they used to visit Mandu often. One of their important Kings was Munjaraja who built the Munja Talao (Munja lake) which flows in front of the Jahaz Mahal in Mandu.
Gradually, the Delhi Sultans began showing an interest in the Malwa region. Sources differ over whether it was Sultan Iltutmish or Balban who first conquered Ujjain in Malwa. This sparked a continuous cycle of engagement with the region, which persisted through the Mughal era. The most significant event however, was the invasion of Timur in 1398, which created a political vacuum in Delhi Sultanate. Taking advantage of the rift, Dilawar Khan, the governor of Malwa declared independence from Delhi in 1401 and started the dynasty of Malwa Sultans. His successor, Hoshang Shah (1406–1435), shifted the capital from Dhar to Mandu, and thus, fate turned it’s miracle for Mandu. He commissioned many architectural marvels, including the Jami Majsid and Hoshang Shah’s Tomb, which later inspired the Taj Mahal.
After his death, his son, who was poisoned in quick order by his father-in-law, Mahmud succeeded Hoshang. Mahmud took the throne, assuming the title of Mahmud Khilji (1436–69). During his reign, the Malwa Sultanate reached its widest limit, as far away as Ajmer and Ranthambore, and the stamp of his might exists in many structures of present day Mandu. He lived at the same time as Rana Kumbha from Mewar, and historians on both sides argue about who had the upper hand! He was succeeded by his son, Ghiyas-ud-din, in 1469 and ruled for the next 31 years. Fond of women, the new emperor upgraded Jahaz Mahal for his seraglio, which numbered in thousands.
In 1534, Humayun captured Mandu from Bahadur Shah of Gujarat but lost it shortly thereafter. The city saw a brief resurgence under Baz Bahadur, known for his romance with Rani Roopmati (more of it later). However, in 1561, Akbar’s forces defeated Baz Bahadur, bringing Malwa under Mughal control. Later, Jahangir too liked Mandu and spent seven months here.
The Marathas took control in 1732, marking another shift in local power dynamics. They moved the capital back to Dhar, which led to Mandu’s gradual abandonment. For ages thereafter, its structures suffered absolute neglect. It was only in 1901–02, with the efforts of Captain E. Barnes, the then Administrator of the Dhar State that steps were taken to bring them out of ruin and decay.
The Love story
The trip started with the love story of Sultan Baz and Rani Roopmati — a poignant tale that I first heard through Gulzar film, Kinara. Their story weaves together love, sacrifice, and tragedy, but then leaves one underwhelmed.
It begins when Sultan Baz Bahadur, the ruler of Malwa, encounters Roopmati, a beautiful shepherdess with a melodious voice, while hunting in the forests near Mandu. Captivated by her singing, he falls in love at first sight. Roopmati, initially hesitant, finally relents and agrees to marry him under one condition — he must construct a palace that offers an unobstructed view of the sacred River Narmada, located about 15 kilometers away. Today, the Roopmati Pavilion stands as a symbol of her attachment to her homeland and her aspiration for personal freedom within her royal existence.
Baz Bahadur and Roopmati lived a life full of music and poetry, often causing the Sultan to neglect his duties as a ruler. Their blissful existence was forever changed when news of Roopmati’s beauty reaches Akbar, the Mughal emperor. Akbar dispatches his general Adham Khan who attacks Mandu in March 1561. Looking at an impending defeat, Baz Bahadur escapes Mandu without Roopmati. Abandoned and alone, she commits suicide, rather than give in to Adham Khan’s advances.
Baz Bahadur survives the conflict and accounts vary on whether he died during later battles or submitted to Akbar’s rule, as a Mansabdar (a low rung military position). The tale of their love continues to echo through the local folk tales and songs of Malwa. Yet, I couldn’t help but find it lacking in chivalry, valor, the clashing of swords, the scent of blood, or the failed retribution. By the end of the story, the Baaz (falcon) had turned into Bheega Kabootar (a soaked pigeon)!
Today, the two palaces of Baz and Roopmati stand side by side, next to Rewa Kund, an important natural spring, with a religious motif. Local folklore claims that the Kund is connected to the holy Narmada, although it seems unlikely as Narmada is 15 kms away and much lower in elevation. Nevertheless, Narmada Parikrama pilgrims visit Mandu to pay respects at this water source.
The earlier Hindu name of Rewa Kund has survived to the present day partly due to the sanctity of its waters and partly because of its association with names of Baz Bahadur and Rupmati, who, it seems, widened and rebuilt it.
It is fascinating how this theme recurs in this part of India involving a royal figure selecting a lover from humble backgrounds, driven by their artistic pursuits. Certain aspects of this love story remind of Rai Parveen, a courtesan, and a poet, who was the beloved of Indrajeet of Orchha. She, too, was forcibly brought to Akbar’s court, but displayed remarkable intelligence and grace to get out of the muddle. Her modest palace now lies in ruins in Orchha. Then there is the romance of Man Singh Tomar, the ruler of Gwalior, who fell in love with a lively Gujjar woman named Mrignayani in the 15th century. Her palace in Gwalior Fort is now a museum.
The strange story of Baobab Tree
Baobab trees in Mandu deserve special mention. Originally from Africa, mostly found in Madagascar, it’s a mystery how they ended up in Mandu. Locals believe that Afghan traders brought Baobab tree seeds to Mandu during the 15th century. African tribes call the Baobab tree the “Tree of Life” because it can store water. In Mandu, it is known as the “Mandu Ki Imli” due to the taste of its citrus fruit.
The tree is tall and bulbous, resembling a giant sticking out of Earth. Its smooth bark is with no branches or leaves until the top, where a fringe of branches and leaves resembling frizzy hair can be found. According to an African folktale, the baobab tree was exceptionally proud of its height and used to mock other trees. In response, God taught it a lesson by uprooting and planting it upside down, resulting in the branches looking like roots.
Nil-Kanth — or Imarat-i-Dilkhusha of Akbar
The structure, built of red stone, was a pleasure-house (Imarat-i-Dilkhusha) constructed by a governor of the Mughal emperor Akbar in 1574 CE, as recorded in an inscription on the site. Akbar visited Mandu four times, on his way to and from Deccan conquests and several carved stone tablets in Farsi record his stays. A thoughtful line of poetry laments the emptiness of earthly splendor and renown -
“At dawn I noticed an owl roosting | In the balcony of Shirwan Shah:
Plaintively it uttered this warning, | Where all that Pomp and where all that Glory?”
Later, the area came under Maratha control when this was converted into a Shiva temple, and renamed.
Having heard the love story and gotten a feel for the place’s history, it was time to see the rest of Mandu. The crown jewels here are centered within the “Royal Enclave”…
Jahaz Mahal
Constructed during the reign of Ghiyas-ud-din Khilji, Jahaz Mahal is famous for its unique design that makes it appear to float between two lakes. Used as a harem for royal women, it is on a narrow strip of land between the waters of the Munj Talao and Kapur tank.
Hindola Mahal
Nearby, Dilawar Khan’s mosque is the oldest Indo-Islamic structure in Mandu c1405 AD. It has a central courtyard surrounded by colonnades, with little ornamentation. The prayer hall stands out with a ceiling that reflects Hindu design, and perhaps this was made out of other demolished temples.
History is agnostic to the principles of fairness or justice, and only heeds to the right of the might. In a short distance, we had seen structures of Muslim rulers that were built by destroying temples, and then how Akbar’s pleasure palace became a shrine when the tide turned.
Jami Masjid
The building of this awe-inspiring mosque was started by Sultan Hoshang Shah and concluded by Mahmud Shah Khilji in 1454 CE. To me, this was the grandest building in all of Mandu. The mosque impresses with its massive proportions and understated decorations. The builders drew inspiration from the Great Mosque of Damascus, as noted in a partial inscription near the door.
Madrasa and Ashrafi Mahal cluster
The collapsed Victory Tower was originally constructed to commemorate Khilji’s attack on Rana Kumbha of Chittor. Surprisingly, Rana Kumbha also built a Victory Tower (Kirti Stambh) in Chittor, suggesting an inconclusive battle. Khilji’s tower originally had 7 stories, but only one level remains today. According to Mandu’s guides, the Tower of Truth still stands in Chittor, while the Tower of Lies collapsed long ago!
Hoshang Shah’s Tomb
On the right jamb of the door is an inscription recording that the four architects of Shah Jahan visited the place in 1659 CE to pay homage to the builders of this tomb. Of them, it may be noted, one was Ustad Hamid who was closely associated with the building of the famous Taj Mahal.
By now, a few themes were emerging — Most standing monuments at Mandu were raised within a period of only 125 years, between 1405 CE and 1526 CE. The architecture of this time showcases simplicity, austerity, and massive construction, exuding a sense of dignity and grandeur. This was a period where the power of the sword was worshipped and luxury, disdained.
Malik Mughith’s Mosque
The mosque was built in 1432 CE by Malik Mughith, the father of Mahmud Khalji. It belongs to the early phase of Muslim architecture in Malwa, where the construction used materials from earlier Hindu buildings. The porch, which used to have a dome, no longer has one. However, the presence of Hindu motifs on the existing pillars, which were originally from some local Temple, remains.
Delhi Gate
Mandu has a huge wall with twelve main gates, important for defense. The Delhi Gate, built by Hoshang Shah, is the most important one. It has steps leading up to it and is worn out from enduring many sieges. The roof of the gate has collapsed.
The sun had started to descend to horizon, as we approached the sunset point.
Suddenly, a gentle mist rose from the valley, enveloping the air with an ethereal touch. It flowed like liquid silk, the temperature dropped, and the earthy scent of damp soil filled the cool air. Gradually, the landscape transformed into a milky white panorama. The mist delicately blanketed the ground, blurring the sharp edges of the ruins and rocks, casting an enchanting veil over familiar forms, turning them into ghostly silhouettes.
A hush fell over the valley, the sounds of chirping crickets and distant car horns muted as if the mist has swallowed them whole. The world felt both intimate and vast, wrapped in a shroud that blurred the boundaries of reality. As the mist thickened, it caught the last rays of light, shimmering faintly like a gossamer veil.
Just then, we pass by a massive Baobab tree with its gnarled and contorted trunk. The tree’s silhouette loomed majestically against the backdrop of the pale sky, resembling a time-worn sentinel. The branches resembled the outstretched arms of Baz Bahadur, longing for Roopmati’s forgiveness.
And through those gushing winds, one could hear the deep sigh of Baz Bahadur’s wandering soul, echoing through the air…Lover’s Last Sigh!
