Deep within the Aravali foothills of Rajasthan, nestled in the bylanes of history, lies the town of Bhangarh. Established in the late 16th century, it owes its name to its founder, Bhagwant Das, a Rajput ruler of Amer.
Bhangadh was envisioned as a seat for his younger son, Madho Singh, ensuring his elder son Man Singh’s claim to Amer’s throne remained undisputed. Back then, this frontier territory was beyond the direct control of Amer or Agra, inhabited by martial tribes like the Mewatis, BadGujars, and Meenas.
Madho Singh ruled competently, but the region remained unstable due to competing fiefdoms and tribal rivalries. Following his son, Chattar Singh’s death in 1630, the town declined. By 1639, Mirza Raja Jai Singh of Amer took control, offering the displaced heirs nearby Macheri as compensation. From then on, Bhangadh became part of the Dhoondhar state.
But Bhangadh was past its prime. A curse seemed to hang over the town, its once bustling streets now desolate with each passing year. The final blow came in the form of a famine in 1783, and since then, Bhangadh has stood as a haunting relic of a bygone era, its dilapidated ruins echoing forgotten tales.
This spooky gem of a “Ghost Town” is a two-hour drive from Jaipur and offers basic accommodations and dining options nearby.
Exploring Bhangadh: A Ghost Town Experience
Venturing into this Ghost Town on a tranquil February morning, we were greeted by a intriguing sight outside the fort’s gate — a Muslim tomb believed to be the final resting place of a king’s son who had embraced Islam… a poignant reminder of the complex interplay of politics and faith during that era.
Upon crossing the main gate’s threshold, a long walkway flanked by dilapidated buildings, now mere shadows of their former grandeur, unfolds. The weight of history is palpable as remnants of temples, palaces, and havelis stand as silent witnesses to a distant past. Engaging a competent guide at the start helps.
At the entrance, a Hanuman temple with many resident monkeys stands beside the main gate, while a sturdy fortified wall once controlled access through Lahori Gate, Ajmeri Gate, Phulbari Gate, and Delhi Gate. These gates now stand closed, their darkened archways preserving the echoes of long-forgotten footsteps.
The main complex, located a kilometer away, features barracks for soldiers along the path, their roofs now absent. Black-faced langur monkeys inhabit these ruins, while local devotees and firewood gatherers pass by, seemingly oblivious. The Nachan Ki Haveli, or dancer’s palace, and the bustling Jauhari Bazar marketplace serve as poignant reminders of the vibrant life that once animated these streets. If you listen attentively, you might catch the occasional laughter of dancing girls or fragments of conversation from the bustling marketplace.
The presence of massive banyan trees supporting crumbling walls adds to the ambiance, while a jungle of fragrant Kewda trees, accompanied by numerous non-venomous green snakes, lends an air of intrigue and danger. A newly constructed Tripolia entry gate leads to the Gopinath Temple, elevated on a 14-foot plinth adorned with intricately carved yellow stones showing signs of regular maintenance and occasional repairs. Across from it lies the Purohitji Ki Haveli, the priest’s residence, covered in vines and weathered, bearing witness to the passage of time.
The Royal Palace, positioned at the fort’s farthest reaches, stands as a testament to the power and opulence that once characterized this township. The dilapidated upper floors once housed the ruler’s family chambers. Local lore suggests that whispers of the past still linger within the decaying walls. Brave souls who venture here at night claim to hear ghostly apparitions and eerie voices, with some recounting sightings of shadowy figures drifting through the roofless corridors, seemingly trapped in an eternal cycle of torment.
The locals share two chilling tales of Bhangadh’s spectral history, adding to the mystique of this ghostly enclave.
Story 1: The Ascetic’s Curse
My favorite story of Bhangadhis a cautionary tale of hubris and fate. Legend says King Madho Singh built the formidable BhangadhFort under the watchful eye of a powerful ascetic named Bala Nath. The ascetic, who resided on this very land, blessed the king but with one critical warning: the fort’s shadow must never touch his abode.
However, as time passed, Madho Singh’s successors, consumed by ambition, expanded the fortifications ever higher. Inevitably, the fort’s ominous shadow engulfed the ascetic’s dwelling. The moment this happened, a darkness fell upon Bhangarh. The once-mighty fortress became cursed and reduced to ruins. Today, it stands as a chilling reminder of the folly of unchecked ambition. The legend of BhangadhFort, doomed by its own shadow, echoes through the ages, a cautionary tale about the dangers of arrogance and the impermanence of power.
Story 2: The Curse of the Spurned Magician
The second legend centers around Princess Ratnavati, renowned for her unparalleled beauty. A local black magician, overcome by lust, desired her and devised a wicked plan. He attempted to use a bewitched perfume to manipulate the princess’s affections.
But the princess, bless her soul, sensed the danger. She outsmarted the magician by pouring the perfume onto a massive stone boulder. As if awakened by dark magic, the boulder crushed the ‘Tantrik’ (magician) to death. With his dying breath, the enraged magician cursed the entire land, vowing that no soul would ever find peace within its boundaries.
Ever since that fateful day, a haunting darkness is said to shroud the land surrounding BhangadhFort, a lingering reminder of its once-great status. While the story emphasizes the power of evil, I find the first legend, with its focus on unchecked ambition, more compelling.
Afterword: The Allure of Dark Tourism
Dark tourism, the act of visiting sites associated with human tragedy, is not new. It encompasses places like Auschwitz (concentration camp), Chernobyl (nuclear disaster), and Gettysburg (battlefield). Even sites like the Kennedy assassination memorial and the 9/11 Memorial falls under this umbrella.
This fascination with the dark extends beyond historical tragedies. Many European cities offer ghost tours, catering to those intrigued by the eerie and unexplained.
Bhangarh, with its desolate landscape, crumbling ruins, and collection of chilling legends, perfectly fits the bill for a dark tourism destination. However, its potential remains unrealized because of restrictions by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) that limit entry after sunset. This, in my opinion, is a missed opportunity to attract more tourists and $$.
Imagine the thrilling experience of a nighttime tour! Cobblestone paths illuminated by lanterns, the moon hidden behind the hills, and a few spotlights casting dramatic shadows from the banyan tree roots. Eerie glints from dozens of monkey eyes peering from the branches could add to the atmosphere. A costumed storyteller, perhaps a proud Rajput warrior, could captivate visitors with tales of betrayal and intrigue.
#ASIListening?
